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Somewhere around here I decided I didn't need to eat the rest of the crack chips. In the future, I should put more gear in the crack. A little extra protection made the difference between a fun lead and a frustrating one. And, of course, when you're climbing hard with multiple other climbers above, you don't want to have to drop gear and redo a hard move. I think I might have been a little overeager with the gear placement, not wanting to leave any room for error. At any rate, Tomas placed the last piece of gear just before the crack was finally past him. Addy was on belay and seemed pretty happy with his pitch, as was I, after my frustrations in the chimney.
In my 20 years of climbing, I can't recall ever rappelling down a new route I've climbed with a group before. I've rappelled down everything on the way down, but never the actual climb that I've lead up. That's a first. I think it's awesome to lead up in the morning, then rappel down, and not have to climb the same thing twice. I've always set up belay at the top of the climb that I'll lead the next day and after that it's just a matter of getting down as fast as possible. This time, however, we had a lot more stuff that we needed to set up before we could follow down the new line. Tomas rigged a fixed anchor on the ledge, and got us set up, then threw a few more pieces of gear into the crack for protection.
As I climbed down to the anchors below me, I saw that addy wanted to lead the next pitch. so, I backed out another sling and gave it to him. Then, he climbed past me, setting some pieces in the crack. As he reached the top of the pitch, I dropped to the ledge below and watched him place a piece in the crack and then step out onto the slab of the North Chimney. He was about sixty feet up. I felt a moment of fear, as I considered the fall that would ensue if he missed any piece. But then I thought of all the people that had died on this slab. I wished him luck and started climbing down.
we climbed quickly up the now expanding corner to the roof of the chimney, a section that was bare of holds and very scary. I made some moves, but couldn't find anything solid. I then got stuck for a while and was forced to move backward. I climbed through a narrow crack between the roof of the chimney and the cliff to gain more space to move. I almost fell, but I regained my composure and moved up the pitch.
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